Dropping In

I had some time to reflect on my trip to the North Shore and it was a great time with the family as well as a great time personally. One of my favorite things about surfing is the thrill of the unknown and how surfing bigger waves forces you to face your fears. The day we arrived on Oahu a new swell was hitting causing the famed big wave spots to break and maxing out Pipeline, Sunset, and other breaks along the 7 mile miracle. I saw the swell was going to be big but rideable the next day. I bought a 7'4" Semi Gun for this kind of surf and I felt ready to challenge myself with what the North Shore had to offer.

We drove up to the North Shore to Sunset beach. The beach was packed with tourists and 20mph offshore wind was whipping up rain and debris out into an ocean of triple overhead surf. While I had been in surf this big once before, I hadn’t been surfing with wind against the waves which blocks you from entering the wave, forcing late drops and having to drop in with your eyes closed due to water slapping you across the face. I looked out while suiting up, gulped and desired to return to the comfort of the car and go to a nice coffee shop with the wife to relax. But I remembered that this is what I came here for. I came to the North Shore to experience fear. To experience the doubt of being capable to accomplish. To risk my well being to pursue my passion. I stood there in a lonely way forcing myself to continue with my journey.

I finished my stretches and walked down the each and paddle out. Quickly losing my position on the reef due to the strong current, I found my self paddling along the inside shallow reef with 8 foot waves but fortunately I was able to push my arms harder to avoid being dragged across the sharp reef to a shameful welcome on the beach. I made it to the lineup and realized a few things:

1. I was on the smallest board by far
2. I was the only person who didn’t live there
3. The waves were much bigger than they looked from shore

I paddled around for about an hour and realized I didn’t really have the equipment nor was I really wanting to drop in on the bigger sets and I found myself a smaller 15 footer to go in on (which still got the heart beating). I initially came in and felt defeated. But after a day of thought on my experience, I began to realize that while I did not get the wave of the day by any measure, I got what I had sought after — facing fears, pushing my limits, wandering into the unknown.

I bring this now into my work and focus on what I desire from my next company vs what the world wants me to desire from my next company.